
Flexibility is the secret to great travel experiences. This lesson was never more relevant than during my recent seven day tour of Panama City, Panama.
Upon my arrival in Panama City, a forest of buildings topped by construction cranes made it readily apparent that the city is in the midst of a condo building boom. (The last time I saw that many cranes was a few years ago in Ft. Laurderdale, FL. I hope Panama City doesn't face the same busted fate.)
I never suspected that the building boom would impact my travel plans, but it did, in a big way. Before leaving for Panama, I read the Lonely Planet guide and listed a number of nightclubs with salsa music and notable pubs, including El Pavo Real -- where John le Carre wrote his thriller The Tailor of Panama -- that I intended to visit.
On the first day, I hailed a cab in front of my hotel -- the Hotel Costa Inn, an affordable but somewhat gritty hotel with great service, a great but humble restaurant, and a rooftop pool with a panoramic view of the city and harbor. A cab pulled over. I gave the driver the address of El Pavo Real, the pub I wanted to visit. After a brief but wild roller-coaster of a ride through the congested streets of Panama -- which is typical of the taxis there -- we pulled up to an address and found not a happening spot, but a vacant lot. The photo in the upper left is the site where El Pavo Real stood from 1981 until quite recently.
The taxi driver looked at the lot and said, "No mas." This routine was repeated five more times with other clubs and pubs I had hoped to visit. It was funny to find empty lots the first couple of times. Then it became depressing. I began to suspect that the downtown area had been gutted of every hotspot to make way for new condo towers.
The choice at this point was A. Stay in my room and drink myself silly on Balboa beer for seven days or B. Find out where the new clubs and pubs were located. I opted for B.
Using my laptop to browse the Web and reading a few local rags, I was able to assemble a new itinerary. And the work was worth it. Among my great and unexpected finds were Sabor de la India, a superb Indian restaurant in the business district; Hacienda Columbiana-Panama, a restaurant in the marina district that had a hot salsa band playing on a covered patio; and The Buccaneer, a great seafood restaurant in the marina district with a fantastic classical guitar duo playing flamenco and jazz standards. Locals also suggested a couple of casinos that had salsa music and salsa lessons on select nights, but I really like to spend my time in much more genuine local settings.
All the restaurants, pubs and clubs I discovered during my trip to Panama served as great ways to end days spent exploring the city, traversing the Panama Canal in a ferry, taking another ferry out to the historic Isle of Taboga, and trekking through the city's municipal rainforest park -- home to monkeys, sloths, tropical birds and, most amazingly, lizards that run upright on water to escape predators.
Ahhh. Flexibility.